A Danish Escapade: Modernity and History Collide in Aarhus

Springing a surprise in 2017's European Capital of Culture.  
Salling Tower, Aarhus, Denmark
The Salling Tower offers a 360° view of the harbour and city. Photo by Quintin Lake.

Situated about 160 kilometres northwest of Copenhagen, Aarhus has been designated a 2017 European Capital of Culture, and both the city and the central Denmark region received the title of the 2017 European Region of Gastronomy. To see it now is to witness a city undergoing a transformation, as new food markets, light-rail links, futuristic libraries, refurbed hotels, and value-centric restaurants—an alternative to Copenhagen’s exorbitant prices—have reinvigorated this Danish city.

But Aarhus’s makeover has been in the works for the past several years. In 2009 it announced plans to go carbon neutral by 2030, and it has stayed on track since. The city has evaluated 70-plus new technologies to determine which will have the biggest impact on carbon reduction.

Most of all, it’s presenting a variety of ways to experience its charms, both new and old.

 

Eat!

Food Fit for Vikings and Visitors

Hotel Royal, Aarhus

Hotel Royal, opened in 1838, is one Aarhus’s iconic landmarks.
Photo by: Julian Broad

Last August, Aarhus Street Food market opened in a former bus garage with around 20 vendors offering options such as grilled cheese with truffled vesterhavsost (a Danish Gouda), bao buns stuffed with beef and kimchi, and spicy Nigerian stews (aarhusstreetfood.com; open daily, check website for timings). Bryggeriet Sct. Clemens restaurant and brewery, located on the site of a Viking-age combmaker’s workshop, serves turbot with apple butter and fennel, dry-aged steaks, and hoppy pilsners (bryggeriet.dk; turbot DKK 295/ Rs 2,710; open daily; check website for timings). Aarhus has three Michelin-starred spots, but eco-bistro Pondus was one of two to receive the Bib Gourmand, awarded to restaurants serving quality food at reasonable costs. Daily specials include goat cheese with lemon and walnut and silky cod soups (restaurantpondus.dk; set menu from DKK 295/ Rs 2,710; open daily 5.30-11 p.m.).

 

Stay!

Coastal Views, Modern Comforts

Rest up on a quiet beach along a stretch of sandy Jutland coast at Marselis Hotel, a mid-century Aarhus respite that faces the calm Kattegat Sea (www.helnan.dk/en;doubles from DKK 1,250/ Rs 11,500). For those who’d rather be downtown, try the Hotel Oasia, near Rådhusparken (City Hall Park), where 65 design-forward rooms are fitted with custom furniture from Danish makers like Montana and Kjærholm (www.hoteloasia.com; doubles from DKK 895/ Rs 8,235). The newly revamped First Hotel Atlantic overlooks the city’s bustling harbour and the walled Aarhus River (www.firsthotels.com; doubles from DKK 1,004/ Rs 9,235).

 

ARoS art museum, Aarhus, Denmark

The 150-metre-long rainbow-coloured glass walkway known as “Your rainbow panorama” is not only an architectural feature but also a permanent art installation at the ARoS art museum.
Photo by: Julian Broad

Play!

Architectural Amusement Park

Mounted atop a dock at the edge of the harbour, Dokk1 is a heptagonal library that opened in 2015. The mixed-use facility is the largest public library in Scandinavia and hosts cultural events ranging from 3-D printing demos to table tennis meet-ups (dokk1.dk; library open Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat-Sun 10 a.m.-4 p.m.). The wedge-shaped exterior of Moesgaard, an archaeology museum, protrudes from the ground like an excavated relic. Its galleries house the 2,000-year-old Grauballe Man, a famed bog body discovered in Denmark in 1952, and interpretive displays on the Vikings and the Bronze and Iron Ages (www.moesgaardmuseum.dk; Monday closed; check website for timings; entry 23 Oct-7 Apr adults DKK 120/ Rs 1,100, 8 Apr-22 Oct adults DKK 140/ Rs 1,290; visitors under 17 free). And in 2017, ARoS, Aarhus’s massive art museum, will receive an open dome extension designed by American artist James Turrell (en.aros.dk; Monday closed; check website for timings; entry adults over 28 DKK 130/ Rs 1,195, adults under 28 DKK 100/ Rs 920, visitors under 18 free).

Shop!

Cultural and Creative Souvenirs

Den Gamle By is a living recreation of an old town, playing up several of Denmark’s historical periods. The 1864 Merchant’s House still hawks timber and porcelain, while 1920s chain store Schous Sæbehus sells perfumes and washing flakes (www.dengamleby.dk; open daily; check website for timings; entry adults from DKK 110/ Rs 1,000, children under 17 free). For one-off designs of divider screens, tea cozies, and pillows, head to 1+1 Textil, which sells avant-garde Danish craftwork (www.1x1textil.dk; Sunday closed; check website for timings).

At Den Gamle By or The Old Town, you can ride a horse-drawn carriage and see buildings from the 16th century. Photo by: Christian Goupi/ Age Fotostock/ Dinodia Photo Library

At Den Gamle By or The Old Town, you can ride a horse-drawn carriage and see buildings from the 16th century.
Photo by: Christian Goupi/ Age Fotostock/ Dinodia Photo Library

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